Weather Damage Report from the Quinta

     Our mayordomo, Alvaro, just called to say that the bouganvillas are already showing new growth, at the tips of their branches, which is a good sign.     It means that the damage brought on by temperatures that plunged into the mid and low twenties last week did not deal a mortal blow to the twenty six bouganvillas we have perimeterizing upper and middle zones of our property. 

     Add to that the fact that the avocado is acting as if it had known no cold, as well as the powder-puff plant, the halaconia, the guayaba, and even the mango in the land "down under", that is closer to the Rio Corona's banks.

      Alvaro is a bit grumpy, because I have been dithering and dallying up here too long.   He is a complex man who wears many hats.   Among other things he has control of about 55  acres of sugar cane near a growing area adjacent to a town named Xicotencatl (hee koe TEHN kaet), about 70 miles on further south from our Quinta.   His mother lives in the town of about 20,000 people which is anchored by heavy agriculture, sugar cane, and the sugar cane processing plant, which is marked by its towering industrial chimney, visible for miles in the area. 

      Xicotencatl is situated on the first flat areas away from the Sierra Madre Oriental and directly east of, and  on latitude with,  the Biosphere of El Cielo, the environmental preserve noted for being the northernmost tropical cloud forest in the Americas.   It is a mystical and charming place....perhaps now over-studied, over-visited, and over-developed in many ways.....but it remains an interesting place with many nooks, crannies, and wondrous natural blessings.

     In any regard, Alvaro is one of four brothers and five sisters, all of whom survived birth and childhood.    They are all industrious and capacitated people with a work ethic that borders upon severe neurosis.   Alvaro,  for instance is a competent or even  master plumber, painter, concrete worker, cook, electrician, gardener, public relations specialist, carpenter, agriculturist, public water-system administrator (with license), among various other things.   He is also painfully honest, and cares for my cash better than I, myself.

     He is a short and slight man, primarily caucasian...Portuguese in appearance, with a square face, very pale skin and hazel eyes, and cheeks that turn ruddy after prolonged contact with the sun.   When not working, he can be seen strutting about in full cowboy regalia....nice, relatively expensive boots, hat, belt & buckle, dress shirt, and trousers or Levi's.

     Our neighbour, the owner of the Hacienda de la Vega next door and adjacent to the Quinta Tesoro de la Sierra Madre, points out that Alvaro is the best overseer in the Valley of the Rio Corona.   Also, he notes, that Alvaro is so jealous of anything moving around the Quinta the he sometimes becomes jealous of his own shadow.   I should note, quickly, that the Hacendado of the Hacienda de la Vega might be a bit jealous himself of the fact the Alvaro is associated with us and not with him.     This said, Alvaro imposes upon his counterpart Ciro (the mayordomo of the Hacienda de la Vega) for favours and renders favours readily when asked or needed by Ciro or the owners of the Hacienda de la Vega.

      The Quinta, and more especially the Hacienda de la Vega rather much anchor the "upper case" for the Ejido Francisco I. Madero.   And they form part of the "upper case" in the entire area of the zone around the Hacienda de Santa Engracia....about a mile to the east of our places.     Near the Hacienda de Santa Engracia there is another cluster of "upper case" people, including a couple of descendents from the last days of grandeur of said Hacienda.

     Mexico obsesses about "equality" and "democracy" in much of its official and public discourse.   But, in many ways it is, and I think always will be, more or less British in the notion that some people are born to one social position and others are born to another.   Like the girl from San Pedro de Garza Garcia, the ultra-wealthy city adjacent to Monterrey, said one time,"If it were not for me, 'they' would have no one to wait on"....

      Even as I make that old, stilted observation of part of the Mexican sociological construct, it should be pointed out that people on the lower end of the totem pole do have considerable recourse in administrative law and that the system of justice has gradually and grudgingly become more resistent to impunity in legal matters as it relates to the upper class .

     Oddities about this sociological situation is that people cannot come to your door if you are a member of what is passively, but rigidly, determined by the general populace to be of the "upper  case".     Such people are not really referred to as "blue bloods", "upper-class", Hacendados (hacienda owners, which can be a perjorative if said a certain way), or Privilejiados (privileged).     It is just known that there are certain places where one must knock or announce oneself at the gate, or the entrance to the property,  and  never the front door to the house.

      This is pointed out here, because Alvaro, much more so than I, is rigid in his enforcement of this unwritten cultural rule of the area.    In rural areas, this is still the rule through most of Northern Mexico to this day.

           In any regard, Alvaro....whom I always address as "Sargento Mayor"(Sergeant Major)...   has given us a report that, barring another serious cold outbreak, might mean that we can look forward to a healthy recovery from the shock of the first two weeks of January.     He is also hinting that he thinks we might need to "extend" the concrete post and wire-mesh fence that he began last summer along our eastern boundary with the adjoining landowner.   This would mean a couple of months of mixing cement and essentially hand-building nice concrete posts.    The above picture gives the viewer an idea of what a semi-dynamic duo looks like.   I am the "semi"  and Alvaro is the "dynamic".      Below, the reader will find Alvaro at work on the concrete posts during the summer of 2010.

       Here one can appreciate Alvaro's handiwork, making concrete posts up from scratch.    This was done during the Summer of 2009, pretty much singlehandedly.    This speaks to the point that any home situation for a Gringo in Mexico really should have a confidable, capacitated local individual who essentially adopts the well-being of the Gringo and his people as though they are his own.

    

                                                                                                                                                  

Going back to Questions & Answers...point number 4

point four -

     Among the reasonable questions and concerns expressed by potential permanent and/or semi-permanent retirees thinking about the Mexican alternative is the security issue.    Incessant stories in the American press about drug cartels, corruption, violence, "spill-over" into the United States, and other such unsavory things have reasonably affected the impression many people have about retirement, vacationing, or even walking across the border to buy a beer at a nice saloon in Progresso or Reynosa.

     (a)    To begin, the American press says that 6,000 people have been killed in the drug wars in Mexico, and even on my news channel, Fox News, a reporter states "In a little border town like Cd. Juarez, there have been over 1,000 killed in one year."    Ciudad Juarez is a city of 1,200,000.   Mexico is a country of 103,000,000 souls.    The number of people killed in drug trafficking disputes or as a result of drug addicts assaulting innocent citizens in the United States is reasonably estimated to be in the neighbourhood of 22,000 per year.   Which means, of course, that the rate of the drug trafficking violence in Mexico is almost exactly the same, on a per capita basis, as it is in the United States of America.

     (b)    Those of us who live in, work in, and frequent Mexico have a saying....and there are variations to this admonition.....that if you want to be secure in Mexico, make certain that you pay for your 5 tons of cocaine with valid, non-counterfeit American or Mexican cash, and that you inform neither the American police nor the Mexican Army or prosecutorial authority about from whom you bought the drugs....

     I recognize that this is a nearly sarcastic response...perhaps even sardonic...but it is true.   One could reasonably estimate that 90% of the homicidal violence in Mexico is intramural, pertaining to disputes between cartels.

      The Mexican Army, deployed in vigorous force by the present President, Felipe Calderon Hinojosa, has dealt repeated devastating blows to the Cartels.    Some 40,000 moderately to extremely well-trained soldiers and marines have honourably discharged their very dangerous duty, taken significant casualties, and delivered devestating, shredding, overwhelming destruction to demonic Drug Baron peacocks and their minions.   The fight is not over, but the victories are piling up.    Mexican civil authority is turning over people with warrants outstanding in the United States at a rate that would have been thought impossible 20 or even 10 years ago.  The Mexican Supreme Court has even rendered an official opinion that Mexicans who commit capital crimes in foreign countries do not have a reasonable expectation to not be extradited to the country of issue in the crime.   Literally hundreds of Americans, Mexicans, and other nationalities on the lamb seeking refuge in the "cactus jungle", have been "repatriated to their fate" in the United States during the past  five years.

(c)    The issue of "secuestros" is also a problem about which to be reasonably concerned.   The "express" kidnappings of people....not just the very wealthy, high profile personalities, but upper-middle class small business people as well.....is a concern, especially in Mexico City and certain areas near that MegaUrb.

       But, the "secuestros" rarely....very rarely..... involve Gringos.    The few times they have, of which I am aware, it remains true that in a majority of cases  drug trafficking is involved.    Another fact is that this problem can be easily  avoided is by staying in environments where you should stay....outside of known high-crime zones, red-light districts, and such dives.....and oddly enough, staying sober in areas away from your home.

      And, oddly enough, the Mexican aversion to the death penalty has diminished markedly because of the kidnappings....and now a wide majority of Mexican agree with the death penalty for "secuestradores" even if no-one is murdered during the kidnapping.   A capital sentence in Mexico is a European-like 30 years...and in some rare cases with aggravating circumstance...recently enacted....two 30 years sentences running consecutively, or a sentence of 50 years.

(d)      In my years, and especially during the recent Era of Violence, I have not seen one "firefight" or skirmish or significant military or police combat action.    And...remember, I live in the middle of the belly of the beast.    I do see, and pass through, scores of Army check-points, manned by young lads with huge French automatic rifles and Israeli sub-machine guns.    I pass convoys of heavy infantry units with Hummer mounted .50 caliber machine guns, and heavily armed company level infantry detachments.   I have been and am inspected by the Army at both permanent check-points and impromptu check-points....and HAVE NEVER BEEN ASKED FOR A FARTHING OR LOST ANYTHING TO PILFERING....in all my years of dealing with the military.   I am 62 years of age now, and made my first run into Mexico at the age of 2.    I owned and operated a deluxe excursion company in Mexico for the better part of 30 years, and I have been a permanent resident, FM-3 for the past 10 years.   These are the facts.

(e)       Cultural cockroaches exist in every race, ethnicity, nationality, and human arrangement.   My job and yours is to seek the environment that excludes contact with cultural cockroaches to the greatest extent possible....and then go about living.     Also, we should do whatever is prudent to push back in whatever small way we can against the cultural destruction caused by the easy money, criminal mentality.   That is what I do in Mexico, and that is what I do in the United States.

(f)        My living situation is in a very rural area....I am completely surrounded by Mexicans, there are no Gringos or other foreigners within  20 miles in any direction.....and most of our "anti-social" problems border on the comical.   A occasional alcohol-fueled dispute goes out of control at some "deposito" (place that sells beer for 'off premisis' consumption) every four or five moons, but even that is a mile or two away....although,  at times, I am asked to come and adjudicate, separate, and castigate the participants.    Even our graffitti is down....it was never really bad....but it has diminished over the months.

      Thanks for your attention....remember we invite comments, and will do our best to give you our honest, blowhard, pontificacious response.

      

Some Technical Advice and Observations

     A word to those who might be interested.   At times it is difficult to edit and/ or amend a posting.   A little hitch in the system.     Also,  for those who would like to review some of our recent previous postings, sometimes there is a link at the lower right of the of the last posting which has the cryptic lable "older postings".....and it might behoove everyone to check in there with each visit.   !!

 Thanks for your attention to this advisory.

Getting ready to head south

     These next two or three days will find us buying little odds and ends to take back down to our little adobe hut.     Diana found an overhead, basket-style lamp shade that will complement our parlour, but I need to find new socket for it.     We shall also be buying a few groceries....always with the notion that if we can buy a bunch of stuff here, it will preclude the need for having to drive into Cd. Victoria to stock up.     It never seems to work out that way.....because other matters arise that  need to be taken care of ,   so we wind up having to drive into town anyway.
      The main things we might buy here is dog & cat food, fresh vegetables, and oddly enough, Mexican-produced fruit juices (JUMEX & VALLE brands especially).   This is pretty much for convenience.   Almost everything we buy can be found in Cd. Victoria for a similar price and quality, save for fresh chicken.   Some canned goods are a little more or a little less....but things like pickles are in short demand.   One have to learn the in's and out's of what is cheaper, better, or available.....and, above all, be flexible.
      For instance, I like chicken livers and gizzards....and the Mexican availability is good enough, because this fare is not necessarily something that calls for a "prime" stamp from the USDA.     I also eat "menudo" , something akin to English tripe stew, by preference, and the makings are readily available at the GRAN-D store where I shop...very clean, washed, and packed on styroboard backing and wrapped in tight cellophane.    The shrimp are fresh and relatively affordable, along with most fish from local fish farms (tilapia) and from nearby Gulf of Mexico sources (trout, sea bass, and red snapper).
      Oddly enough, and this is mentioned in our blog often, most of the beef, especially standard steaks...such as rib-eye, sirloin, and t-bone....ranges from really good to excellent....at or near prime after we finish its correct cold-aging at home.   That aging process, and a bit of trimming makes a red meat dish worthy of our guests.

      Right at this time the fuel costs in the McAllen area is around $2.579 for regular....and the peso is a bit strong at 12.60 pesos to 1 dollar.   That makes PEMEX regular the equivalent of around $2.80 per gallon.   So that will mean filling up on the Texas side this time.    The old Dynasty make about 31 miles to the gallon, so it takes about half a tank to make it down to our Quinta...or about 7 gallons.

    

HELLO again from rural Mexico and/or deepest South Texas!!

FRIDAY,  January 15,    2010
     Three "Winter Texans" encountered me as I came out of the HEB grocery near our place in Mission, asking if I were the same "crazy Gringo" who has a place in the interior of Mexico. It was a fairly predictable take-down.....one that occurs about three or four times per month.     Usually they are folks who have been referred to me, or had me pointed out as "certifiable"....but that I could be considered at least a nominal authority about matters concerning Mexico. These folks were fairly normal in that they had the same reasonable questions and concerns about investing, living, and generally hanging around in Mexico. What I shall put in print below is a fair combination of this little meeting and perhaps a hundred others, at different times and in different places.

Point one 

         A lot of folks have the idea that a Gringo can go to Mexico and live on 600 dollars a month. Please be aware that such is impossible, unless one would wish to diminish his standard of living to the extreme. To be blunt, my rule of thumb at this writing and under the economic conditions we are encountering, both good and ill, is that a minimum expenditure in an urban area for day to day living for a couple would be at least 2,000 American dollars/month. In some rural areas with adequate infrastructure and housing alternatives, a couple might be able to get along on 1,600 dollars per month.

      This usually would include about 300 to 500 dollars per month for a modest but comfortable house or apartment in a decent setting, and slightly less in the rural areas. In the rural areas there are fewer places to let, but they can usually be found with a little effort.

     Electricity, for instance, can be somewhat expensive, given what little the user may be powering. In our little place, for instance, we pay between 50 and 70 dollars every two months.....which seems reasonable....until one considers that we power a medium sized refrigerator, a few pig-tail lights and lamps and even fewer incandescent.....all of which are vigorously policed and turned off when not in use. There are two old-fashioned televisions, one of which is used quite a bit, and the other very seldomly, and two small air-conditioners, one in each bedroom.....which are also used very, very sparingly.

Point two

      It is all but necessary....I would go ahead and say unavoidable.... to take out essentially what is a Mexican passport....in the form of what is called Forma Migratoria - III, or the famous FM-3. This requires a visit to the Mexican counsul most convenient to the applicant. One must also have a valid American Passport, proof of income which can be earned without employment in Mexico which, at this writing, would be equivilant to about 1,600 American dollars per month.

     There are other somewhat mundane things, such as a letter to the indicated official of the Secretaria de Gobernacion expressing why the applicant would want to live in Mexico. Another is the provision of six passport photos.

      With this document in hand the holder can purchase land anywhere in Mexico, with certain limitations concerning the size of tract, and with certain prohibitions concerning location of the land and/or house. The FM -3 also facilitates the engaging of everything from obtaining a telephone, satellite/cable television installation, and even making a longer term lease on a desired property.   Normally, where purchases are not allowed, leases are....and in some cases....inheritable and renewable 99 year leases are permiitted.

Point three
     Buying and/or building a home may well not be the best alternative for a first-timer, or for a person who does not intend to be at his residence at least 80% of the time. In the opinion of the Old Gringo, it is best to "get one's feet wet", and rent or preferably lease for a year or so before jumping into the deep end of the pool. And...before even that.....the new Mexican "residente immigrante" should have either mastered the process of documenting his vehicle at the border for what is called "temporary importation" and/or how to master the Mexican autobus system. The Mexican bus transportation system is a marvel for those who can adapt, in that it provides comfortable medium and long distance travel for relatively inexpensive fares. Most 2nd class, and all 1st class and deluxe busses are almost almost always clean with functioning HACV systems, assigned seating (from the original terminal), clumsy but effective luggage control, and even terminals that are survivable to pleasant.

       Another alternative for the newcomer that would beat hanging around in Mexico for excessively long and pointless periods of time is to take a couple of group tours....and enjoy them....no matter how funky they might be. Your objective on such a tour would not be to "survive" going to Mexico or to be entertained....but rather to determine if you can adapt to the order within the disorder, the contradictions, the inefficiencies, the food, the language,and so forth.

       It will be my pleasure to continue my pontifications about the how's and why's and when's of doing things in Mexico, all from the point of view of one who....as Yogi would say...been that and done here.

Posted by The Old Gringo at 8:42 AM    More later!